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<h2 class="hd hd-2 unit-title">Tradition & Modernity</h2>
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<h3>Tradition & Modernity</h3>
<p>In today’s exercise, we will sort through another collection: a set of covers from <em>Shiseido Graph,</em> a weekly magazine published between 1933 and 1937. How does this collection shed light onto the artistic practices, social norms, and marketing techniques of 1930s Japan? What does this collection tell us about Shiseido’s goals and ideals, and the ideals of Shiseido’s customers?</p>
<p>First, watch the introduction by Professors Dower, Gordon, and Weisenfeld. As we saw on Day 20, close readings of certain images can open up broader themes that might characterize an entire set of images. Unlike the first gallery sort, however, the themes we have suggested for today go beyond purely visual techniques. They ask you to think about some of the social and cultural values behind these covers.</p>
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<h2 class="hd hd-2 unit-title">Methodologies: Gallery Sorting</h2>
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<h3>Methodologies: Looking for Patterns (Optional)</h3>
<p>Look over the images in the gallery below and complete the gallery-sorting exercise. You may find it helpful to take a look at the Image Galleries on the Visualizing Cultures website where you can see all the wonderful magazine graphics together.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://ocw.mit.edu/ans7870/21f/21f.027/shiseido_03/index.html" target="_blank">Link thru</a></strong> to the Shiseido galleries (optional: opens in a new browser window).</p>
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<h3>Gallery Sorting</h3>
<p>Now, look through the entire collection. We have suggested four categories into which you should sort the covers. There are no “correct” answers, and images may fall into more than one category. After sorting all the images, follow-up questions and short video clips will help you think through those categories in more detail.</p>
<p><strong>Cinema & montage:</strong> which covers feature allusions or references to cinema, and/or use the artistic technique of montage?</p>
<p><strong>Traditional dress & cosmetics:</strong> which covers seem to incorporate traditional elements of clothing or appearance alongside Shiseido products?</p>
<p><strong>Home & family:</strong> which covers focus on family life, or show women inside the home?</p>
<p><strong>Modern women:</strong> which covers emphasize the independence and sophistication of modern women?</p>
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<p>Now that you’ve made your choices, go back to the top and use the check boxes to display your results and look at the patterns and variations.</p>
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<p>Selected covers from <i>Shiseido Graph</i> (Tokyo: Shiseido), 1-50 (June 1933 - September 1937). Shiseido Corporate Archive. <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/" target="[object Object]">CC BY NC SA</a>. [<a href="http://ocw.mit.edu/ans7870/21f/21f.027/shiseido_03/sh_gal_05_thumb.html" target="[object Object]">View the full gallery</a> on the Visualizing Cultures website]</p>
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<h2 class="hd hd-2 unit-title">Category 1: Cinema & Montage</h2>
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<h3>Category 1: Cinema & Montage</h3>
<p>We will now look at each of the categories from the gallery-sorting exercise in more detail.</p>
<p>Cinema became a major form of entertainment as well as artistic production in the interwar years, in Japan and around the world. The lectures and exercises below will introduce you to some characteristic features of cinematic art as they appeared in Shiseido’s publications.</p>
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Checkboxes
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<p>While mechanical reproduction may strip artwork of its aura, it nevertheless allowed art to reach a much greater audience—which was one factor motivating the artists working for Shiseido. Their desire to connect the newest styles of avant-garde art to a mass audience shows through clearly in these covers.</p>
<p>Mechanization also figures into another common motif in these covers: objects relating to industrialization. Did the presence of machines, vehicles, and other markers of industrial society influence the way you categorized the covers?</p>
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<p>In the early-20th century artists around the world, ranging from the Italian futurists and Russian constructivists to the international art-deco movement, embraced the imagery of the industrial age. Automobiles, factories, industrial cityscapes, aerial photography—these and other features characterize these movements in the visual and literary arts. Many of the “Shiseido Graph” covers clearly reflect the influence of these movements. Imagine yourself in the 1920s or 30s—which one of the following themes symbolized by this imagery comes across most powerfully?</p>
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Checkboxes
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<legend id="e1c4ac224e144a9395f5b072535b6cc0_2_1-legend" class="response-fieldset-legend field-group-hd">According to Professor Dower, which modes of transportation characterize the &#8220;transportation revolution&#8221;? Check all that apply.</legend>
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<p>One final element to think about is the composition of each image: how do the individual parts relate to each other? What perspective do the artists use? Listen to Professor Weisenfeld draw out some key features.</p>
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<h3 class="hd hd-2">Lecture 7.13: Modern Artistic Techniques III</h3>
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<p>According to Professor Weisenfeld, what is the key characteristic of the German Bauhaus movement that recurs in these <em>Shiseido Graph</em> covers? Select the best answer.</p>
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<h2 class="hd hd-2 unit-title">Category 2: Traditional Dress & Cosmetics</h2>
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<h3>Category 2: Traditional Dress & Cosmetics</h3>
<p class="p1">The second category from the gallery sort was the presence of traditional dress alongside modern Shiseido cosmetics.</p>
<p class="p1">It is clear that avant-garde art encompasses a huge range of techniques and subjects. And as Professors Gordon and Weisenfeld pointed out at the end of the last clip, interpretations of images can differ. Nevertheless, their remarks also make clear that even images that may appear traditional are resolutely the product of modernist artists. This blurring of tradition and modernity is a crucial point to keep in mind as we move into the next category: traditional dress.</p>
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<p>At first glance, women wearing Western-style clothing contrast starkly with women wearing kimono and Japanese hairstyles. Similarly, the use of modern cosmetics also seems to be at odds with the traditional clothing worn by women in several of the covers. Based on the images you selected for this category, which of the following explanations do you find most compelling?</p>
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<label class="poll-answer-text" for="poll-86164340cd274e7a9830e5f1a43786ac-answer-R"><p>Shiseido sought to appeal to a wide customer base, including not only women who dressed in Western clothes, but also those who dressed more traditionally.</p></label>
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<p>Often we need more information to refine our interpretations. In the following clips, Professors Dower, Gordon, and Weisenfeld explore the place of kimono in modern Japan in more detail. Think about how the information they introduce might change your interpretation of the <em>Shiseido Graph</em> covers.</p>
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<legend id="8e917d7fb72b4483b345635be7a9e1fe_2_1-legend" class="response-fieldset-legend field-group-hd">Professor Weisenfeld suggests that kimono were not by themselves a marker of being modern or traditional. Rather, she argues that &#8220;being modern&#8221; meant&#8230; (Select the best answer)</legend>
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<p>Being modern often meant acting modern in an urban environment: cities were “the stage for modern life.” The actual items of clothing were less important than the way clothes were worn, or the things women did while out and about. Yet, so-called “traditional” clothing may be even less traditional than it appears.</p>
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<h3 class="hd hd-2">Lecture 7.15: Kimono II</h3>
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<legend id="cbded3936c244ffea963876238bab51f_2_1-legend" class="response-fieldset-legend field-group-hd">Professor Gordon argues that &#8220;traditional&#8221; Japanese clothing underwent tremendous change in the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries. What piece of traditional clothing did women adopt in this period that marked such a transformation? Select the best answer.</legend>
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<input type="radio" name="input_cbded3936c244ffea963876238bab51f_2_1" id="input_cbded3936c244ffea963876238bab51f_2_1_choice_0" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_0"/><label id="cbded3936c244ffea963876238bab51f_2_1-choice_0-label" for="input_cbded3936c244ffea963876238bab51f_2_1_choice_0" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_cbded3936c244ffea963876238bab51f_2_1"> Obi
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Multiple Choice
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<legend id="25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1-legend" class="response-fieldset-legend field-group-hd">Although the majority of women continued to wear kimono, it was not a static piece of clothing&#8212;it, too, had fashion. How did women change the way they wore kimono in this period, and what global fashion trends did they emulate? Select the best answer.</legend>
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<input type="radio" name="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1" id="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_0" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_0"/><label id="25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1-choice_0-label" for="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_0" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1"> The obi rose higher, echoing modern ballet costumes in Europe
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<input type="radio" name="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1" id="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_1" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_1"/><label id="25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1-choice_1-label" for="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_1" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1"> The obi sank lower, echoing modern ballet costumes in Europe
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<input type="radio" name="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1" id="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_2" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_2"/><label id="25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1-choice_2-label" for="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_2" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1"> The obi rose higher, echoing flapper dresses
</label>
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<input type="radio" name="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1" id="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_3" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_3"/><label id="25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1-choice_3-label" for="input_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1_choice_3" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_25bf21c51cef47f29eb397776f49c1fe_2_1"> The obi sank lower, echoing flapper dresses
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<h3 class="poll-header">Poll 7.8</h3>
<form>
<fieldset class="poll-container">
<legend class="poll-question">
<p>Finally, how would you characterize the interplay between the transformation in Japanese clothing and fashion, and global developments in clothing and fashion? Select the most persuasive answer based on the evidence you have seen and heard.</p>
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<label class="poll-answer-text" for="poll-74b142d42d3d401e81741277940072bb-answer-R"><p>Japanese women copied Western fashion, both by wearing Western clothing and adapting traditional clothing to Western styles</p></label>
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<label class="poll-answer-text" for="poll-74b142d42d3d401e81741277940072bb-answer-O"><p>A wide gap emerged between a globally connected urban elite, who adopted Western fashion, and a more provincial, poorer group of women, who continued to wear traditional clothes.</p></label>
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<p>In the next category, we will think about tradition and modernity in a different context: that of gender roles, and particularly the role of women in the family.</p>
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<h2 class="hd hd-2 unit-title">Category 3: Home & Family</h2>
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<h3>Category 3: Home & Family</h3>
<p>The third category, home and family, includes images that show women at home or with their children. What do these images tell us about the ideal roles for women in interwar Japan, and the ideal types of families? Were these ideals traditional or modern?</p>
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<p>Several images depict women at home with their families. These images implicitly express and reinforce a variety of social norms about women and gender roles. Based on the images you selected, which of the following values comes across most strongly?</p>
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<p>These various norms about women’s roles were often summed up by the popular phrase “Good wife, wise mother.” In the short video below, Professor Gordon explains the ideal of the “good wife, wise mother," as well as changes in the way historians have interpreted that ideal.</p>
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<h3 class="hd hd-2">Lecture 7.16: “Good Wife, Wise Mother”</h3>
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Multiple Choice
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<legend id="10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1-legend" class="response-fieldset-legend field-group-hd">When did the phrase &#8220;good wife, wise mother&#8221; come into being? Select the best answer.</legend>
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<input type="radio" name="input_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1" id="input_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1_choice_0" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_0"/><label id="10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1-choice_0-label" for="input_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1_choice_0" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1"> It was a traditional phrase dating back to the 18th century
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<input type="radio" name="input_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1" id="input_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1_choice_1" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_1"/><label id="10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1-choice_1-label" for="input_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1_choice_1" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_10c5603ffcb04bc78bcb8dbd4e32b721_2_1"> It dated to the Meiji Restoration in 1868
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Multiple Choice
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<legend id="15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1-legend" class="response-fieldset-legend field-group-hd">Professor Gordon argues that historians&#8217; interpretations of the slogan &#8220;good wife, wise mother&#8221; have changed. How? Select the best answer.</legend>
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<input type="radio" name="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1" id="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1_choice_0" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_0"/><label id="15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1-choice_0-label" for="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1_choice_0" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1"> Historians used to believe that the &#8220;good wife, wise mother&#8221; was a traditional ideal espoused by male elites to contain women in a time of enormous social change: now, they believe that women themselves articulated this ideal
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<input type="radio" name="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1" id="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1_choice_1" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_1"/><label id="15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1-choice_1-label" for="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1_choice_1" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1"> Historians used to believe that the &#8220;good wife, wise mother&#8221; was a traditional ideal espoused in a time of social change: now they believe that it represented a set of modern, bourgeois ideals about the family and femininity
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<input type="radio" name="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1" id="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1_choice_2" class="field-input input-radio" value="choice_2"/><label id="15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1-choice_2-label" for="input_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1_choice_2" class="response-label field-label label-inline" aria-describedby="status_15262e49f69247079aa0522ef1c9fcd2_2_1"> Historians used to believe that &#8220;good wife, wise mother&#8221; was a state policy to keep women out of politics: now they believe that it was a highly politicized phrase used by women and men to serve different political purposes
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<p>Heterosexual, monogamous marriage for life, supervising the home, taking care of the husband, kids and in-laws—these values might strike us today as traditional “family values” or traditional women’s roles, but they are in fact the product of the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries, in countries around the world. Articulated by (mostly male) elites, inscribed in advertisements, and enforced by law and social sanction, these values were one understanding of what it meant to be a modern woman. Yet, as the <em>Shiseido Graph</em> covers reveal, they were by no means the only set of ideas associated with modern femininity. A “modern woman” meant different things to different people in 1920s and 1930s Japan—let us now look at a very different take on the “modern woman.”</p>
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<h2 class="hd hd-2 unit-title">Archive Visit: the Shiseido Archive</h2>
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<h3>Visit to The Shiseido Archive</h3>
<p>Tomorrow we will conclude the Shiseido module by looking at gender, labor, and the state. Before doing so, you may be interested in some supplementary material for today’s lesson: this is not mandatory, and you can skip this page if you wish.</p>
<p>First is a video of Professor Miyagawa’s trip to the Shiseido Corporate Archive in Kakegawa, Shizuoka Prefecture. There he meets with archivist Satō Tomomi, who introduces many of the materials we have looked at in this unit and offers her own interpretation. Professor Dower offers a brief introduction in the first clip, which is followed by the second clip of Professor Miyagawa's conversation with Satō-san.</p>
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<p>As we have seen, film and the cinema became hugely popular in interwar Japan. The development of film was part of a global moment. Below are links for two of the most popular and influential modernist films.</p>
<p>The first, Abel Gance's <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2ViW4lxmD0" target="[object Object]">La Roue</a>, is a French film produced in 1923. It demonstrates the emphasis on speed that featured in so much modernist art. Note how fast the film is edited compared to present-day Hollywood films!</p>
<p>The second, Fritz Lang's <a href="http://youtu.be/ZSExdX0tds4" target="[object Object]">Metropolis</a>, is a German film from 1927. The focus on machinery, industrialized urban space, and the exploration of gender and sexuality should be familiar themes from Shiseido's artwork.</p>
<p>Both films demonstrate how modernism as a global artistic practice became a model for Japanese artists. They also illustrate that Japanese artists were inspired by developments around the world, not just the United States.</p>
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